Recent sales

Sold 2 racks of Caesars Palace LV $1’s, mint to Roca-fella, along with a rack of the gold Caesars Tahoe NCV’s.

Also midstream in a sale with chipandachair for the Rasta Grand Casino Biloxi set, 500 total. Keeping 1 rack of lime greens for the mixed set with the Caesars Tahoe white NCV racks.

Will probably find something else to pry loose this month. Backed both of the sets above out at cost.

The chip history spreadsheet says I have 4,692 chips total.

I guess spreadsheets don’t lie.

Casino Aztar tourney = 400

the Outpost tourney = 600

the Outpost cash = 990

Caesars Tahoe = 560

King’s Crown tourney = 520

TRK solids = 900 +/-

Odds and ends = 700 +/-

I guess the odds and ends need to be pared down drastically.

Let’s see:

A. 120 St Jo secondary $100’s - gotta hold

B. 100 St Jo Ricochet arc yellow spotted chips - don’t know what to do with them, but love em

C. 62 Palais de Congress $20’s - gotta hold – backup $20’s for cash

D. 100 lime green Grand Casino Bilxo NCV’s - holding due to the recent ‘Boots’ purchase.

E. 210 white Caesars Tahoe NCV’s -‘Boots’

F. 60 Grand Casino Gulfport $2.50’s - gotta hold

G. 60 Arc yellow starbursts - who would want them?

H. 60 gold cherries – same here, doggies.

I. 50 Oceanside 8v’s - no use for them, they’re my giveaway chip

J. 30 lime green Comstock NCV’s - awesome chip, if I had 200 of them

That’s already almost 800 chips that are not attached to any other chipset.

There is also 265 LCV Outpost Casino $2’s that could be let loose. Who the heck needs 565 of one fucking denomination?

The TRK solids pile could be trimmed as well. 260 Plantations would go nicely with the blue ‘ARM’ solid $5 denom. The ‘LG’ chocolate and the ‘ARM’ lavender $10’s can back that up either way. Just don’t know what to do for the fractional. The yellows are beautiful in the “ARM’ side of the family but horrible on the’LG’ side. There are odds and ends for quarters and dimes but not enough.

So there should be 200 yellow TRK solids that could go. Hmm.

hard to sell all the bits. Feels like a bargain bin mess.

Casino Aztar primaries and secondaries coming soon

100 sec $25’s(T25)

200 pri $100’s (T100)

100 sec 50 centers (T500)

Hope to get another rack of pri $100’s. A nice, full SNG set that will (again) not be used.  At least it keeps me sane.

I really enjoy the real shaped inlays and the really nice broken in T100. Hope that the 50 center will play well with the others, and I think it will.

The fact that two of the chips’ edgespots will ‘add up’ to something that is close to 1″ is funny.

818 =1″

3T14 = 2 1/4″ (oh well. Not even close)

2A12 – 1″

I just love the pri $100 though, and I knew the sec rack would be more expensive and harder to get, so pri rack it was.

I like have a ton of the second denom for tournaments. Makes the game ’splashy’ with raises.

Free flow thoughts

A few thoughts:

Have you ever noticed that the TH & C’s on either side of one of your chips are not aligned? I mean, they are not aligned so that the depressions are back to back. Which means that the two halves of the mold do not come down aligned at all. Flip a chip back and forth, keeping track of where the hat is on the rim and see if the hat on the other side is directly behind it. It usually isn’t. And almost all chips are different in their misalignment. Which means each chip will sound slightly different than the others because the actual mass configuration of the chip is different. (Knee jerk assumption, may be totally wrong.)

My TRK’s show the same lack of mold alignment. The small crowns don’t match back to back.

ASM’s, I can’t confirm because they’re not at the office.

Another thought.. I wonder why BCC won’t do custom edgespot punch dies for customers? That’s 5K easy. And they’ve done it in the past?! (MSPatton’s quarter pie)

EDIT: apparently the quarter pie punch was bought from TRK by MS Patton.

I was all ready to start saving for my own weird edgespot punch. And they go and say no. Of course not directly to my face, as jdalton posted it.

May have to phone them and verify why?

Here’s my reason: BCC really doesn’t want to ever do a body color fill in a 3T18 or 4T18 to get that fake split spot pattern we all love.

The bits of edgespot color that they have to insert to try and match the body ostensibly are the same color, but batch color variations and different process steps being what they are, they end up not looking right.

So why not make a REAL split spot pattern die?

Easy peasy, right?

The other thing that bothers me on the actual Paulson split edgespot pattern is that the 1/8″ spot stripes are parallel to each other, which to be honest seems forced. For some reason I want to see them radiating from the center, which means they have to be angling away from each other, not parallel.

Hence, my desire for my own radiating split spot pattern. In a tri-spot configuration. (See Harold’s Club chips) I don’t think this is a new idea.

Oh well. BCC just saved me 5k.

to close on a high note: just got back two racks of TRK off white Plantation Casino solid roulette chips from Sparks, NV. Thank you bandonlooper. My babies are back.

Now I have 260 total of the off white. With the Kings Crown chocolate dimes and quarters, I need some $5’s to finish this solid cash set.

Sabbatical my ass.

Things I know that I didn’t know before (Paulson molds)

There’s nothing like getting these things in your hand, because a scan won’t show you depths and levels of detail your hand and naked eye will pick up. Two years ago, I had no clue about these things. The only casino chip I had ever experienced in hand were Hard Rock Casino chips at a Blackjack table, and the lighting was less than best. (RH&C) Now, well, let’s just say, I know certain details that seem pointless but may exist for reasons that are unstated.

Long Hat and Cane Paulsons have an inlay indentation that is less deep than a Short Hat and Cane Paulson’s center indentation, which gives the LH&C’s a tendency for spinners.

The 43mm Inverted Hat and Cane mold’s hats and canes at the NESW locations are deeper than the 45 degree locations.

The Reversed Hat and Cane mold’s hats are quite susceptible to edge chipping due to the hat indent locations.

The Roulette Mold has one of the words “ROULETTE” closer to the outer edge than the other “ROULETTE”, which lets edge chipping at the tops of the letters, “R, O, E, both T’s and the last E”. (Why this off centered detail was allowed is beyond me, unless it was an intentional security feature.)

Personally, I don’t like RH&C’s. The only benefit I see is the ability to use Super Grand inlay sizes, which I don’t like anyway because they get design intensive.

LH&C’s need to be checked for spinning on both sides if you expect to play with them.

Roulettes rock too, but are usually lighter than normal.

Any IR&C I can get my hands on for less than $15 is a bargain in my eyes.

I love a minty new SH&C.

It’s a time tested workhorse. You could say it’s like a Honda CIVIC, perfected model year after model year.

Nothing like racks and racks of SH&C’s.

I would love to see statistics as to which mold is used the most in a quantity comparison for current casino use.

I would also love to see the spec for all the molds to see why all these design anomalies exist. But who am I to be such a needy, grabby knowitall?

Oh, and House Molds rule. (Note: I only have one House Mold in quantities; the Caesars Tahoe Resort. If anyone wants to send me mass quantities of House Molds, feel free to contact me to rectify this bias in casino house molds.)

Waitaminit, I have two racks of Caesar Palace house mold blue $1’s… so the above statement is not true.

If anyone were to ‘donate’ a rack of minty fresh $5’s from there, that would be nice (for research purposes only, I swear)